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Giorgio Armani’s Spring 2009 collection is a sharp contrast to the norm this menswear season. For the most part this season Designers chose a sharp contrast of pajama pants paired with formal jackets, giving the model the look of “I just rolled out of bed and I’m in the middle of changing for an important business function.”

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This seasons Fendi Collection, which was put together by designer Silvia Venturini Fendi, included an odd collection of wedge heeled shoes. This is strange for obvious reasons. When questioned about this Silvia Fendi admitted that she simply couldn’t resist and what was meant by this selection was that she is partial to perversity.

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What a fantastic change. The development of the Etro collection shows some volume of thought. Every journalist experiences this very frustration. The frustration that one is only viewing the same old thing, hashed and rehashed. Thankfully every once in awhile a designer bothers to take his, or her own perspective on the coming collection.

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Dean Caten and Dan Caten of DSquared, put together a collection this season, that was close to a fifty fifty mix of business meets sporty casual. It is clear, and always has been that Milan is known for sporty business wear. However, it would be more creative to push outside that box every once in awhile. How divine it would be, to experience some truly unique and original inspiration, in a season where reality dictates that designers are clearly taking the sloth approach to the creative aspects of their collections.

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Apparently one show wasn’t enough. Fortunately the D&G collection is much better than the Dolce & Gabbana collection. For this collection Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce used the French Rivera to inspire a formal wear meets beach collection.

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In what is being called the most comprehensive analysis of American sportswear, this seasons Calvin Klein, Milan, menswear collection, was a fine blend of business meets athleticism. A silly statement considering the fact that sporty business attire is the Italian norm. Padded blousons and britches, as well as the use of athletic fabrics such as gray jersey, perforated cotton and a new bonded paper. Zucchelli’s fabric experimentation came up with a sort of fabric that looks like leather, but is actually a very strong paper.

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The coexistence of youth and luxury, was the bill that designer Frida Giannini was attempting to foot with this seasons Gucci collection. Unfortunately, nothing is trendy about Hawaiian prints or baby blue suits. The collection contains far too many flamboyant colors, that in several cases, didn’t match other portions of the same ensemble.

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The Alessandro Dell’Acqua Menswear collection has already been refered to as the survivors collection and even as exhausted utility. The collection does have a casual but rough around the edges feel with distressed tops and pants, heavily patched in places, set in faded color tones of sand, earth, and skin, worn with clogs or desert like boots.

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Alexandre Plokhov the designer of Versace who is generally referred to as the ex-Cloak maestro, put together an interesting collection that is being accurately called “New Wave pop precision.”

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Massimiliano Giornetti the designer of Salvatore Ferragamo has said many times before, that “the modern male no longer observes the traditional codes that dictate dress for day or night.” With the exception of throwing on a jacket on cool nights, this statement is all too true.

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